discovering London and a visit to the British Museum (again)

 

Gothic London

and my latest London #walkabout.  Oh how I love to wander the streets of London! I am sure that if you had to track my journey on a map  my route would look a bit like a demented fly has been let loose!!!    My initial plan was to visit the British Museum, as I have not been for ever such a long time and wanted to see the Afghanistan exhibition as well as explore Temple.  So onto the bus and off I went.  Enroute CJ suggested that since I would be walking right past the Petrie Museum I should stop off there first….turns out the museum is situated within the University College London complex, which as it turns out is a complex maze!!!   But what an interesting maze!  I discovered a couple of really interesting items whilst ‘switchbacking’ as one does in a maze!   First was a lovely greek mural

mural on the wall in one of the many rooms I meandered through enroute to the Petrie Museum

and the second were the Koptos lions! Awesome. 

Koptos Lions

Finally I found the Petrie Museum, only to discover it was closed!!! hahaha.   Tuesday to Saturday = opening hours and hey….it was Sunday! Urgh.
Anyhow it was worth the meander, and now at least I know the easier access route.
From there I set off to find the British Museum.  One of the most sensible things the city has done in recent years is put up the ‘easy find’ maps.  These are positioned around the city on just about every corner and show you not only where you are, even if you are lost it still tells you where you are, but it gives a wider view of the surrounding area. Easy peasy find your way around. Very useful for folks like me who cannot be bothered to carry a map.

maps

When I got off the bus in Euston Road I was delighted to discover more examples of our  modern architecture. I am becoming quite a fan of the newer buildings. I also had a good view of the BT Tower so knew I was on the right track.
Never one to take a direct route I meandered here and there following whatever caught my eye. I discovered some fascinating places along the way:
The Royal Academy of Dramatic Art
Bonham Carter House – which has a blue plaque proclaiming: The First Anaesthetic given in England was administered in a house on this site 19 December 1846. whoa!
a wonderful row of Georgian Houses
the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine
University of London – Senate House and Library (brilliant building)
a delightful park
and the rear entrance via Montague Place to the British Museum 🙂 yay

rear entrance to The British Museum off Montague Place

The Afghanistan exhibition was meant to be booked, which I had not, so instead I visited the Iranian exhibition, where I got to see one of the first copies of the Qur’an F.A.B.U.L.O.U.S. And if you have not yet been and if you live in London…….why are you waiting?
I am sure I wandered around the museum for at least 2 hours.  The exhibitions are marvellous.  I seldom get past the first floor so this time I made the effort and climbed the stairs to the next level to see what I could see.  Wow!!
in all I visited
Ancient Iran and the Middle East in the Raymond and Beverley Sackler Gallery – fascinating.
Enlightenment
Living and Dying –  with displays of some of the most outlandish coffins you could imagine, made by the Ga people of Ghana.
Living with Land and Sea – where amongst other fascinating objects I saw a parka made from seal gut!
and then I revisited
the Middle East exhibitions of which the Rosetta Stone was inundated with visitors as usual.
The Clocks and Watches exhibitions
part of the Hans Sloane curiosity collectables collection
as well as a number of others that I have forgotten the names of.
With well over 100 exhibitions and displays to visit you would seriously have to visit a dozen times to see it all.  There are so many wonderful treasures to see the mind can’t cope with all the intriguing artefacts and facts on display. Thankfully the British Museum allow you to take photographs for future enjoyment! 🙂

one of the many displays inside the British Museum

I left the Museum via the main entrance and stopped for a few minutes to visit the Australian exhibition in the forecourt. A journey through Australia’s varied and actually mind-boggling landscape.
Also in the forecourt were two vans 1) selling ice-creams and 2) crepes 🙂 and I had no money 😦
Outside the museum I saw a taxi decorated like a Pirate Ship 🙂

pirate ship taxi

and across the road on Great Russell Street, a row of terrace Houses #’s 67 -70 the first works of John Nash – architect 1752–1835.
then Bloomsbury Square
with a statue of Statesman Charles James Fox 1749-1806
the house where Sir Hans Sloane – benefactor of the British Museum lived 1695-1742
It was my plan to visit and explore Temple as well today so from Bloomsbury Square I headed off in the general direction and wandered along Southampton Row where I discovered the delightful pedestrianized Sicilian Avenue… a triangular area of restaurants and cafes. Wonderful.

Sicilian Avenue

Southampton Row is lined with wonderful buildings some of which are adorned with fascinating sculptures and reliefs.
On my way to Temple I walked along Kingsway and discovered the marvellous Aviation House!!
and quite by accident; Lincoln Inn Fields! I was delighted to discover this historic part of London and park. On the perimeter are a number of imposing houses one of which is where William Marsden – Surgeon lived 1796-1867 (I think) the plaque was too far away for me to read it properly.
I walked through ‘the fields’ (aka a park) and passed a beautiful memorial for Margaret MacDonald who spent her life in helping others.

Margaret MacDonald memorial at Lincoln Inn Fields

Enroute round the perimeter of the park I found a slightly decrepit bust of John Hunter; Surgeon, Anatomist, Teacher and Collector 1728-1793! Hmmm, little did I know what i was to discover next!
Leaving the park, I turned left and headed towards a marvellous red-brick gate and what looked like a church; eager to explore. And on the way I passed the Hunterian Museum!!! OMGosh!! sadly it was closed, but no matter at least I know where it is….will just have to find a quicker way to get there. Next stop was this marvellous gate et al and to my dismay I learned it was private property and No Entry! How rude. But I did find out through diligent questioning that they have tours of the place every Friday at 2pm!  So guess where I will be at 2pm on Friday!  I did not discover what the place was except that it has something to do with ‘The Law’!
And hey presto to my right was the rear of The Royal Courts of Justice…whey hey! Super duper.

The Royal Courts of Justice, London (rear view)

Of course I have been inside these magnificent courts and even got to play at being Judge in the high court last year on Open House weekend in September  2010. heehee.     CJ has a photo of me somewhere in my Judge regalia, wig and all!!
My destination at this stage was still Temple and I figured I would get there eventually. Walking past the courts I noticed an old building with a statue tucked away in a niche above the doorway; Thomas More – Sometime Lord High Chancellor of England, martyred July 6th 1535!   The Royal Courts of Justice are no less fabulous and imposing at the rear as what they are at the front. A must visit!!!
on my way I passed:
an old silver merchants shop ‘The Silver Mousetrap’ est 1690…mind-blowing
The Union Bank Chambers est 1865
and then delight of delights….King’s College London.  I had seen this marvellous building some months ago from the other side when I visited Samuel Johnson’s house, but had no idea what it was.  I had it in mind to find out and today I did….quite by accident mind.
Marvellous, marvellous. It looks like a fairytale castle and since the gate was open….I explored. I wanted to explore the building but got asked to leave by the very grumpy security guard. Yeah alright already! God! Instead I meandered the gardens, wonderful. I also met Confucius  😉
from there I did my demented fly thing and suddenly found myself at Fleet Street and the doors to Inner Temple, which as it turned out were locked and I had to do a detour!

the doors to Inner Temple - beneath Prince Henry's Room in Fleet Street

And I will write a separate blog about that….in due course and by this stage I had taken over 400 photos! 🙂  some of which I have uploaded (32) in an album on facebook.

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the treasures of London

18.09.10  Walkabout through City of London….. Today (18th) I got to do one of my favourite things…..I went walkabout through London, and I am sure that by now you will have noticed I do this quite a lot. 🙂

London is a treasure trove of interesting buildings, parks, statues, unusual places and sometimes unexpected surprises!  I never tire of walking about the city and today was no exception.

Arthur Sullivan memorial in Victoria Gardens

I started my journey at Leicester Square…just coz I love it so much. I briefly explored the gardens and noticed that the square was unusually quiet….either that or I was unusually early 🙂  It was quite pleasant for a change – being able to walk around without being knocked off my feet. 

Leicester Square at 10:10 in the morning...better than 22:10 in the evening!

Then I meandered over past the Wappenbaum, past China Town and onto Piccadilly Circus where I managed to get a few photos of the fountain and Eros without a rainy background……did I mention that the day was splendid!!! 

a perfect autumn day

 Wonderful blue skies and crispy autumn weather.  I also managed to take wonderful photos of the 4 horse fountain and the golden girls above.

From there I walked back through Leicester Square past the London Hippodrome which has the most amazing carved chariot on the top of the building.  I then walked along Charing Cross Road to Trafalgar Square to see the robot display that was set up in the forecourt.

robots at Trafalgar Square

The sun was shining brightly and I got a fab photo of St Martin-in-the-fields Church.

St Martin-in-the-fields

I had decided to take a walk along Victoria Embankment, so making my way past Charing Cross Station I stopped briefly to admire the newly renovated Eleanor Cross and the facade of the hotel.  It had been my intention to walk along Villiers Street to the gardens but I stopped briefly to look at the Sanza shop in the Arches Shopping Arcade and for some reason the end of the tunnel beckoned enticing…..  I am quite unable to resist meandering through narrow lanes and around hidden corners to see what’s beyond. 
As I walked out the tunnel to my delight I noticed an intriguing pub ‘The Ship and Shovell’ a tiny little pub that has the unique distinction of being the only London Pub in two halves.

The Ship and Shovell..... a pub in two halves

Yes, indeed one half of the pub is on the opposite side of the narrow lane.

I exited into Crawford Street and while looking around I notice a plaque across the street on the wall.   Closer, I noted that it mentioned that ‘Heinrich Heiner’ lived at the house in 1827.  These plaques are of constant fascination to me and I am always delighted to discover them….it amazes me to know that famous people, whoever they may have been, had lived there.

Before leaving I turned to my left to photograph the houses on that side of the road, briefly annoyed that there was a great big blessed bunting attached to the railings. Complaining to myself about hanging bunting all over the place I walked closer to get a better angle…and bit my tongue! Not literally thankfully, but mentally.  The reason for the bunting was ‘Open House’. Yes it was one of the Open House venues which are open to the public this weekend every year in September…and to make it even better it was the house where Benjamin Franklin had lived!!! Whoo hoo.

inside Benjamin Franklin's house

Without any further ado, I stepped into the foyer and to my absolute luck a tour was just about to start…I tagged along immediately.  Although the house is largely unfurnished it offers a fascinating insight into the homes of Georgian days.  I wrote more about this in a separate blog on 3daysinlondon.info.  Needless to say, it was fascinating and I really enjoyed this glimpse into the past…a past of gas-lamps and dark alleyways, mystery and discovery.

After the tour I headed towards the embankment once again and as I strolled along to my delight I noticed another blue plaque further along….this one said that ‘Herman Melville’ author of Moby Dick lived here in 1849!!! OMGosh….  Then I walked back and along another narrow lane past The Sherlock Holmes’ restaurant.  Wonderful.

Sherlock Holmes Restaurant

Shortly I reached Whitehall Place and noticing that the park gates were open I decided to explore….I have never yet explored these gardens despite having walked past many, many times.   I stepped past a bank of the Barclay’s bicycles….they are everywhere 🙂 then walked through the gates and into a wonderful landscape…..the gardens are dotted with fascinating and fabulous statues and the flower beds are lovely.  The rear buildings of Whitehall, which stand tall and imposing but beautiful, tower over the gardens.

Whitehall Gardens

There a number of memorials to folk who have influenced the City of London and the United Kingdom in many ways as well as other aspects of the history.  I will blog on these folk separately as there are so many.  Reaching the end of the gardens I stepped out and into Horse Guards Avenue.   I was delighted to realise where I was now and walked along to the end of the avenue, past the Ministry of Defence which is massive and very imposing with two statues sitting atop a plinth on either side of the doors.

Ministry of Defence doors and statues...impressive

A short stroll brought me to Whitehall (the road) and across the way of course are the Horse-Guards.  I retraced my steps and found a lovely statue commemorating the Gurkha Soldiers and noting the various Campaigns they had fought in for the UK….I mused that Joanna Lumley had very good cause to fight for their right to stay in the UK.

list of Campaigns the Ghurkas fought in for the UK

I strolled along to admire the front of the buildings that line the gardens at the rear…they are impressive and very beautiful.  I then walked back and turning right into the 2nd half of the gardens I noticed amongst the usual statues one very beautiful statue that looked like an angel descending from the heavens.  On closer inspection I noted that it was a RAF Pilot descending on angel wings named ‘Fleet Air Arm’…..the memorial was inscribed with dozens of names….stunning. 

Fleet Air Arm

I then made my way towards Victoria Embankment just in time to listen to Big Ben chime the 12 noon. 🙂

I made my way over the opposite side of the road to have another look at the memorial to ‘The Battle of Britain’.  It really is very impressive….

memorial to The Battle of Britain... on the Victoria Embankment

Then meandering along I enjoyed my view of the London Eye, County Hall and the wonderful memorial in remembrance of the men and women of the Air-Forces who gave their lives in the 2 World Wars.  Finally reaching Hungerford Bridge I clambered up the steps for one of my favourite views of the river and the city.

what a beautiful view.....an amazing city 🙂

 Along the way I stopped to look at the memorial to Sir Joseph Bazalgette CB – the Engineer of the London Main Drainage System and of this Embankment! And on the other side of the bridge is a memorial to W.S. Gilbert Poet and Playwright ‘his foe was folly and his weapon wit’.  Cool.

By now it was almost 12:30 so I made my way into the Victoria Gardens and strolled along to admire the gardens.  These gardens are beautiful, also filled with wonderful statues and memorials: Robert Burns; the gate that marked the north bank of the river Thames before the construction of the Victoria Embankment in 1862;

this gateway marks the position of the north bank of the River Thames before the construction of the Victoria Embankment in 1862

a fascinating statue of a soldier in the uniform of the WWI mounted on a camel.  I forgot to have a look what the inscription was….  Also in the gardens is a beautiful memorial to Arthur Sullivan and to Robert Raikes ‘Founder of Sunday Schools in 1780.

I tarried for a while and enjoyed my sandwiches whilst listening to the chirping birds and murmur of brief conversations. The sun was beating down, warm and comforting.  After lunch I continued along through the park and noticed on my left the entrance to the Savoy Hotel.  Deciding to have a closer look I ventured along Savoy Place leading to the hotel and along the way I noticed a 2nd Open House….The Institution of Engineering and Technology, the beautiful Victorian building situated on  the site of the 13th Century Savoy Palace. Awesome.
I stepped through the doors into a lovely tall cool foyer, where I was told I could explore at will…which I did. First to the 3rd floor and the Riverside Room from where I had a marvellous view of the river and then into the Lecture Theatre; original panelling and carved cartouches from 1909, designed by W S Frith, as well as a beautiful ceiling feature.

beautiful ceiling of the Lecture Theatre at the EIF

Next stop the  library and archives; housing a world-class collection of digital and printed resources on all areas of engineering and technology.

From there I decided to explore the rear of the Savoy Hotel which looked rather beautiful, and to my delight and amazement I found a tiny chapel; The Queen’s Chapel of the Savoy in the square.

The Queen's Chapel of The Savoy

From here I continued uphill and found that I was now in The Strand, and as I walked along I passed Somerset House and since I had yet to visit…..decided to explore….the London fashion Week is being hosted in the forecourt and the number of totally amazing outfits boggled the mind. 

London Fashion Week - some seriously absurd outifts

 I noticed that the Inland Revenue has their home there (?); admired the fabulous fountain that faces the entrance,

lovely fountain in the courtyard of Somerset House

walked around the back to Seaman’s House…the carvings around the building are of a nautical nature and most amazing…I walked through the foyer of Seaman’s House to the patio at the back for a view of the river…lovely. Returning to The Strand I walked to the far end to explore a church I had so wanted to visit for ages…. St Mary Le Strand, one of 2 island churches on The Strand.

interior of St Mary le Strand

Wow…what a beautiful church….again I will blog on this separately. From there I meandered as I do and found amongst other treasures; the ghost station of Piccadilly RLY – Strand Station; now boarded up and just around the corner in Surrey Street another exit to the station, also boarded up.

a ghost station

And just a wee bit further on I noticed a mysterious tunnel-like entrance and a plaque on the wall… thank goodness they are so sensible in this country with all the plaques…stepping into this dark entrance – Surrey Steps, I walked along this exceptionally short street and down a dank, grubby set of stairs and into a very shabby lane to the right and there to my utter delight were the remains of a ‘Roman bath’ ….. awesome!!

a Roman bath

Another of the English Heritage sites and one of the Open House venues….not normally open to the public and usually viewed through a window we were able to step into the ancient past.

From here I made my way back downhill towards the embankment, passed the delightful ‘Norfolk Hotel’ with its wonderful facade and intricately carved entrance details,

beautiful detail on the pillars at the entrance to Norfolk House

and thence to Temple where I was to meet up with my daughter.  Since she had not yet arrived I meandered along Temple Place, passing Arundel House and to the corner where I stopped at Number 2 Temple Place to enquire of the 2 very smartly dressed gentlemen out front the gates, about the history.  Turns out #2 Temple Place was a  house built for the ‘Astor’s’ of the hotel chain, but they never actually lived in it.  It is now owned and managed by The Bulldog Trust and is used as a venue for weddings, important dinners and such like.  Very grand.

Number 2 Temple Place...built as a residence for Wiliam Waldorf Astor 1895

From there I slipped through the metal bollards that guard the entrance to the lane heading uphill and into Temple. A short walk and up a long flight of steps into a short cul-de-sac uphill and past the Edgar Wallace Pub….a sad story.

As I neared the top of the lane I suddenly became aware of a beautiful building ahead of me… OMWord!!! The Royal Courts of Justice…..a most incredibly beautiful buildings, looking for all the world like a fairytale castle rising up on the crest of the hill.  My jaw practically dropped to the sidewalk in amazement….it is magnificent. 

The Royal Courts of Justice

 I sent CJ a text message to say hurry up….it’s one of the Open House venues!!! Yup, you got it….the courts were open to the public for our delight.
While  was waiting I explored the surrounding area and found the most delightful and beautiful St Clement of the Danes Royal Air Force Church. 

St Clement Danes Central Church of the RAF

An enormous memorial to ‘Gladstone’ stands on the forecourt and the interior of the church is magnificent.  A small church dedicated to St Clement has sat on the site dating prior to the 9th century.  When the settled Danes settled in the area the church became known as St Clement of the Danes.  I will go back at some stage to explore further and then blog in more detail about it.

Finally CJ arrived and we set off to explore this magnificent Royal Courts of Justice. (see blog)
After the fun and games of this particular visit, I then took her on a tour of Fleet Street and the areas I have explored for my itinerary. We visited the birth site of Samuel Pepys, St Bride’s Church, Fleet Place, Old Bailey, past St Sepulchre’s Church (another favourite of mine), past Cutler’s Hall, into Stationers Hall, along Ludgate Hill to St Paul’s and through Temple Bar into Paternoster Square. Along the way we stopped to admire the beautiful houses in Amen Court and the very modern steel spiral vents of Paternoster Square.

spiral vents at Paternoster Square

By now we were in the mood for a hot drink so stepped into Starbucks and treated ourselves to a drink and carrot cake…..sat on the benches surrounding the ‘pineapple’

the 'pineapple' in Paternoster Square and St Paul's Cathedral

and enjoyed our fabulous view of the Cathedral….listened to the 6 p.m. Bells while I regaled her with tales of the history of the square, St Paul’s and surrounds.  After coffee and having recovered our strength we explored the garden of St Paul’s and then to the bus-stop and home.

A marvellous day.

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